The Hobymotor mania do you know the electric current generated filling bobbin type AC (alternative current) direction and the resulting large voltage bobbin filling approximately 20 volts at high on lap.
Only problem is the motor electrical systems adopt voltage 12 volts DC. Kiprok is required major regulator of charging voltage, and is also useful to convert AC current to be DC which will be supplied to the battery,
and also point to prevent the flow of electricity in the battery charging back into the bobbin could have broken down this coil.
Kiprok it self used in the motorcycle that still use batteries. Where is the battery so the main Confluence of all electrical motors, but once the battery does not fit or accidentally released, the motor electrical devices to be easily damaged. That's because the battery as stable. Immediate indication that a bulb lamp is often broken when the machine gassed or high RPM, and again shortcomings motorcycle products now (the time of this writing) generally embraced the DC ignition system, it can be broken down this CDI.
As technological developments are also many who are Reluctant to use batteries, manufacturers developed so kiprok regulator / rectifier. Although regulators are still supported kiprok combined enhancement devices as a voltage stabilizer. So that when the motor was equipped with battery (removed), a bulb does not quickly break even in the high RPM.
Unfortunately until now there are many misguided about kiprok and regulators. When the motor electrical problems around, as the mastermind of pure kiprok bet, when kiprok in the motor assembly itself is rarely used.
To find the difference kiprok and regulators, who like me will try Hobymotor info you know how. Both tools were not much different from, but the most striking is the price, the price of the cheapest kiprok price Rp. 20.000 while than price regulators KW2 above Rp. 40.000.
Kiprok cheaper than regulators in part because there's just a diode, while in addition there is a diode regulators also have an additional electronic device that serves to stabilize the voltage. The way to see the regulators are still good or not, with a reading of resistance (ohms) at the foot terminal with a range of 1 ohm multitester use on each leg of right side regulators will read the direction of the diode current work. While the 2nd leg will be read next to the needle for 50 ohm tested multitester back and forth though.
Now regulators feature die needle moves to the right until the needle is stuck or not moving at all.
Thus the Hobymotor mania, may be useful.
Kiprok it self used in the motorcycle that still use batteries. Where is the battery so the main Confluence of all electrical motors, but once the battery does not fit or accidentally released, the motor electrical devices to be easily damaged. That's because the battery as stable. Immediate indication that a bulb lamp is often broken when the machine gassed or high RPM, and again shortcomings motorcycle products now (the time of this writing) generally embraced the DC ignition system, it can be broken down this CDI.
As technological developments are also many who are Reluctant to use batteries, manufacturers developed so kiprok regulator / rectifier. Although regulators are still supported kiprok combined enhancement devices as a voltage stabilizer. So that when the motor was equipped with battery (removed), a bulb does not quickly break even in the high RPM.
Unfortunately until now there are many misguided about kiprok and regulators. When the motor electrical problems around, as the mastermind of pure kiprok bet, when kiprok in the motor assembly itself is rarely used.
To find the difference kiprok and regulators, who like me will try Hobymotor info you know how. Both tools were not much different from, but the most striking is the price, the price of the cheapest kiprok price Rp. 20.000 while than price regulators KW2 above Rp. 40.000.
Kiprok cheaper than regulators in part because there's just a diode, while in addition there is a diode regulators also have an additional electronic device that serves to stabilize the voltage. The way to see the regulators are still good or not, with a reading of resistance (ohms) at the foot terminal with a range of 1 ohm multitester use on each leg of right side regulators will read the direction of the diode current work. While the 2nd leg will be read next to the needle for 50 ohm tested multitester back and forth though.
Now regulators feature die needle moves to the right until the needle is stuck or not moving at all.
Thus the Hobymotor mania, may be useful.